But
wait a second… what’s this? Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No, it’s Brad
Pitt walking onto the red carpet of the 2019 Venice International Film
Festival in classic black-tie, worn straight up, no twist. Here’s a
Hollywood icon dressed like a Hollywood icon: a pure distillation of the
kind of fantasy elegance embodied by Cary Grant, Paul Newman and Gary
Cooper in their respective heydays, wearing a suit made by the original
tailor of la dolce vita, Brioni of Rome.
The
effect it had on Pitt’s status as a style icon was almost
instantaneous. This led to a special collection developed in conjunction
with the actor who is now the face of the Brioni’s Spring/Summer 2020
campaign – an exclusive image from which features on this week’s GQ Hype cover.
“He
started appearing in Best Dressed lists again,” says Norbert Stumpfl,
the relatively nascent creative director of Brioni and the man behind
the outfit. “He wanted to channel the golden era of Hollywood glamour
and was very engaged in the process and had very precise input, which is
really exciting. I work with celebrities a lot and they are usually,
you know, ‘Oh, it’s just a tuxedo.’ But Brad is a little bit different.
He wants to look really sophisticated and he is very particular about
using very traditional fabrics like mohair. Brad really knows the
garments and he has a very good taste level.”
While
the effect may look simple, it’s the details and intricacies hidden in
the cut, fabric and construction of the suit that helps to create that
wonderful impression of a man with absolutely nothing to prove. Firstly,
the fabric must stay free of creases in the journey on the way to the
ceremony, when the actor will step out of his chauffeur-driven car,
which invariably gets caught in traffic, and straight onto the red
carpet. “We test our mohair by scrunching it into a ball in our fists
and holding it for at least a minute,” says Stumpfl. “Our exclusive
mohair fabric has a natural ‘spring back’ in its structure, which means
it keeps its shape and doesn’t crease.”
For
all the classicism and perceived formality of black-tie, Brad Pitt
looks totally at ease and comfortable within himself. He moves smoothly.
When he raises his arm to wave to the crowds and sign autographs,
everything stays in place. That’s not just because he’s well, Brad Pitt,
but also down to the skill of the tailor: “The suit is well fitted but
not too tight,” says Stumpfl. “The internal construction and handwork in
the suit, the placement of the armholes, all of these help to give this
sense of incredible movement.”
All
of which is designed to mirror the easy, laidback charisma of the man.
“He also has kind of a cool attitude, you know?” says Stumpfl. “He just
puts the clothes on and says, ‘This is what I like.’ He doesn’t think
about it after. He’s not standing in front of the mirror and checking
himself out. He puts it on and then he moves around. He’s forgetting
about it.”
The
design of the shoulders set the tone of a bespoke suit. Broadly, the
more built-up and angular the line of the shoulder, the more striking
the effect. Conversely, when less padding is used, the effect feels more
natural and laidback. “The shoulder is constructed but not overly
padded,” says Stumpfl. “It’s a very natural shoulder. The whole look is
still very elegant, it has presence but is not overpowering.”
Perhaps
one nod to contemporary fashion is in the width of the lapels, which
are generous, recalling those of the late 1960s and 1970s. “We went for a
little bit of a larger lapel than before, bringing more attention to
his face. In the 1960s and 1970s we had these beautiful, generous
revers. He likes the feeling of this and also it creates a more balanced
body.”
His
trousers continue the flowing line of the jacket and are cut fuller and
worn higher on the waist than we have perhaps been used to seeing. “He
likes the trousers quite high-waisted because when he walks on the red
carpet there’s this elongated leg line," says Stumpfl. "He also likes
the trouser legs long, so that when he steps out of the car you don’t
see any socks showing.”
On
his feet Pitt prefers shoes cut from a single piece of leather, so that
the only seam that shows is hidden at the back. These “whole-cut”
shoes, as they are sometimes called, are sleeker and have a slightly
elongated toe and continue the fuller line of the trousers. He also
prefers hand-polished calf leather as opposed to shiny patent. Up top,
the bow-tie is bigger and fuller than usual, which again, subtly recalls
the generous, richer style of the 1970s.
Underscoring
all this formality are a few personal touches. “He likes to accessorise
with his own jewellery such as bracelets from each of his six children.
He always has those bracelets, which are very personal to him," says
Stumpfl. Underneath hand-pleated Brioni shirts made from the highest
thread count cotton is a singlet vest, which he buys in Japan.
You
see? It’s all details details. All of which you, as a mere mortal, can
try at home. Of course, while you can wear Brad Pitt’s tuxedo, it won’t
actually turn you into Brad Pitt. Brioni are tailors, not magicians.
Happily, Brad Pitt in real life does not disappoint. “I cannot believe
it," says Stumpfl. "When I first met him, the guy comes onto the set
[and] it’s like an explosion! There is a charisma there which is
incredible. But then he’s just very charming and very easy.”
“It
was so easy when we shot him for the campaign. He was contracted to
work for an hour, but we spent almost three hours together. He was
really into the clothes. It was a nice atmosphere. We took 100 pictures
and could have used 95 for the campaign. There’s not a bad picture.”
Later
this year you too have the opportunity to flex like Brad, as the star
is putting his name to a signature Brioni tuxedo, among several other
limited edition pieces for the brand. The concept is all part of the
label's Tailoring Legends campaign, an idea that marries talent with
Brioni's exquisite craftsmanship and sense of what men need right now.
“These
clothes are simple," says Stumpfl. "Of course, underneath, in terms of
fabric research, colours, cut and craftsmanship there is a lot of effort
to get the garment to this kind of level, but the overall effect is
simple. And it’s great to see it come alive on Brad Pitt. It’s beautiful
to see.”
Thanks Jennypeachy's
Random Fuzzy
Oscars
gold bike chain on left wrist, gold chain, gold skulls, red tiger's eye and others on right wrist
SAG
dark metal bike chain
diamond bracelet on left wrist
AFI
diamond bracelet on right wrist, star tattoo and bee ring
Ad Astra
eight bracelets on right with the bee ring
Breitling summit
Yurman ID bracelet
The first piece of jewelry he was seen wearing after September, 2016 was a gold necklace in June, 2018 at the start of the summer schedule in London to force the children to open up to him while Angelina was busy filming Maleficent MoE. He was first seen wearing a bike chain bracelet on his right wrist in October, 2018. He was seen wearing a 2nd necklace in December, 2018 after the judgement on custody and visitation. He started wearing bee rings and multiple bracelets on his right wrist in July, 2019, after the judgement on status only.
Angelina and the kids apparently chose jewelry from David Yurman's catalogue for Brad to wear for them -- bracelets for the children and bee rings for Angelina. To-date he has worn around a dozen different Yurman bracelets and 3 different bee rings. Since August, 2019 he has been constantly wearing a gold Petrvs bee ring on his right ring finger. On a handful of occasions he wore other rings along with it including a gold band on his left pinkie. The diamond and bike chain bracelets not found in Yurman's catalogue are likely also from Angelina -- they are the only ones Brad has worn on his left wrist. The design of the diamond bracelet which has channel-set graduated baguettes, is very similar to a Procop-Style of Jolie design and the setting is similar to her engagement ring's. On the other hand, the diamond ring she has frequently worn with precisely matched tapered baguettes undulating around an oval-cut diamond to resemble a shining star (sun if the stone was round) shares the same aesthetic with both. The undulations effectively give the ring 8 sides, it symbolizes the family. Along with the large star on his wrist, it acknowledges her role as the family's center, shining for everyone and holding the family together. She has lately been wearing a wide, shiny gold band on her left middle finger after 3 years of wearing bands only on her right hand. What and when they choose to wear on their left hand or wrist vs. the right is significant.
They may not be ready to emerge publicly as a family just yet but they've given multiple indications -- like their eagerness to release the news of their Miraval "family project" that is still months away from production -- that they are living together as one.
singlet vest
