Showing posts with label Norbert Stumpfl. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Norbert Stumpfl. Show all posts

Monday, March 15, 2021



© Mikael Jansson | Brad Pitt in the Brioni spring/summer 2021 campaign, wearing washed-silk workwear blouson and trousers, both POA.

Aleks Cvetkovic 

Last year, shortly before all social gatherings were put on hold, Brad Pitt was photographed in New York on his way to an awards ceremony at TAO Downtown. He was dressed entirely in grey, wearing a two-piece suit and matching overcoat and a polo shirt, louchely unbuttoned in lieu of a shirt and tie. Made by Brioni, the look epitomised a resolutely modern way of dressing, the perfect expression of the brand’s reinvention following a rocky few years. “We’ve made some great progress,” says Norbert Stumpfl, Brioni’s design director, from the house’s headquarters in Rome. “When I joined, I really wanted to instil a feeling in the design team that we are allowed to innovate here.”
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But to solve Benabadji’s “awareness” challenge, the house is relying on a tried-and-true tactic: celebrity endorsement. Brad Pitt was enlisted as a brand ambassador in line with Stumpfl’s first collection (at the end of 2019), and has since appeared in advertising campaigns and on red carpets in the house’s sharp tuxedos. In April, this partnership will be further cemented with a capsule developed in a collaboration between Pitt and Stumpfl.
“It’s made of easy, timeless clothes,” says Stumpfl of the pieces. “Of course, underneath, in terms of fabric research, cut and craftsmanship, there is a lot of dedication to make clothes at this level, but the overall effect is simple and effortless.”
Quite apart from his gargantuan public profile, this association with Pitt feels surprisingly authentic. “It’s great to work with a person who really knows about clothes, art, architecture,” continues Stumpfl. “To me, he is the ideal Brioni customer: creative, successful, has a family. He represents many different facets of modern masculinity. Every man looks up to him, women love him, he’s forward-looking and yet he’s ‘old Hollywood’ too. He lives in his time.”
Anna Ross, a trend forecaster and former editor at WGSN, says Brioni’s partnership with Pitt is a smart move because, while influencer marketing is showing signs of stagnating, A-list endorsements still hold sway. “There’s an enduring elegance to Brad Pitt’s profile that reflects the core values of Brioni,” she says. “Pitt resonates with their customer, yet has a household-name influence that doesn’t reek of ‘in-the-know’ exclusivity. To pair Brioni with the latest TikTok or Instagram star wouldn’t sit right, but Pitt’s profile resonates beyond social-media platforms.” And early signs suggest the new direction is paying off. Mr Porter, one of Brioni’s long-standing and largest online stockists, has seen significant interest in the brand over the past 12 months. “We’re seeing a strong requirement for timeless pieces,” says the retailer’s buying director, Sam Kershaw, “and Brioni is a great example of that, evident by the commercial success we had with an exclusive Brioni collection launched last November. Looking ahead, I predict demand for the house will remain high.”
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Last year, Stumpfl told GQ: "He likes to accessorise with his own jewellery such as bracelets from each of his six children. He always has those bracelets, which are very personal to him."  Stumpfl's statement "(he) has a family" obviously refers to Brad being with Angelina and the children and, by definition"living together as a unit"  -- which is notably what they've been working towards in healing their family.  

They've consistently used family including with the Jolie Family Collection.  

"Angelina said from the beginning that she felt she had to take action for the health of the family and is relieved that after their 8-week involvement, the DCFS is now satisfied the safeguards are put in place that will allow the children to heal."

“Her family is broken and she is in agony. Her children are recovering from the events that brought about the filing.”

"I separated for the wellbeing of my family. It was the right decision. I continue to focus on their healing."

When I asked Pitt about that period of time in his life, he at first curtailed the inquiry. “I had family stuff going on,” he said. “We’ll leave it at that.” 

"We are and forever will be a family. I am coping with finding a way through to make sure that this somehow makes us stronger and closer."

"We care for each other and care about our family, and we are both working towards the same goal.

"The parents are committed to act as a united front to effectuate recovery and reunification."

"Angelina remains focused on healing her family. She continues to support the reconciliation of the children with Brad."
(She) has “tried to bridge the gap between the kids and their dad. She’s worked to achieve reinstatement for them."

[The DeMille] is a big jump forward for us, and we’re all trying to do our best to heal our family.”
"I wanted it to be close to their dad, who is only five minutes away."

"A breakup of a family is certainly an eye-opener that as one needs to understand, I had to understand my own culpability in that, and what can I do better. Because I don't want to go on like this."

“I’m not suicidal or something. There’s still much beauty in the world and a lot of love. And a lot of love to be given."
"I know the people who love me know me. And that's enough for me."

"We’re all just healing from the events that led to the filing. They’re not healing from divorce. They’re healing from some . . . from life, from things in life.”

"I don’t know how many women they’ve said I’ve been dating the last two or three years, and none of it’s true."

“None of it’s easy. It’s very, very difficult, a very painful situation, and I just want my family healthy.”

Pitt, who won his first Oscar in 2014 as a producer for Best Picture 12 Years A Slave, telling us the key to happiness in Hollywood is family and love.
“We’re human, we want purpose, we want meaning in our lives. But to attain that, the key is two things: staying creative and being with the people we love."

Angelina: "Half the time I listen to rock and the other half to mindful meditation from Thich Nhat Hanh, the very wise Buddhist monk."
Brad: “When I want to escape, I spend a lot of time in an art studio. Or I will read the occasional book on spirituality, or listen to podcasts on philosophy."

"The past few years have been pretty hard. I’ve been focusing on healing our family. It’s slowly coming back, like the ice melting and the blood returning to my body."

Their truth expressed in their own carefully chosen words has been consistent and undeniable.  By repetition they've made it very simple and very clear.  They've already provided a general outline and can fill in the details when they break their silence.  Anything that differs from what they've said is fantasy garbage by tabloids and pseudos.


The birth coordinates of the seven members of her family is the focus of her chosen image for her Guerlain Women For Bees intro.  Brad transformed Angelina's A in her quadrant of the family grid into a larger A within a large star so she now towers over the children's initials.  It symbolizes that she is the Star with an outsized role in the family.  From his wrist to his elbow, her star to giant bee.



Tuesday, February 11, 2020

gq

But wait a second… what’s this? Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No, it’s Brad Pitt walking onto the red carpet of the 2019 Venice International Film Festival in classic black-tie, worn straight up, no twist. Here’s a Hollywood icon dressed like a Hollywood icon: a pure distillation of the kind of fantasy elegance embodied by Cary Grant, Paul Newman and Gary Cooper in their respective heydays, wearing a suit made by the original tailor of la dolce vita, Brioni of Rome. 
The effect it had on Pitt’s status as a style icon was almost instantaneous. This led to a special collection developed in conjunction with the actor who is now the face of the Brioni’s Spring/Summer 2020 campaign – an exclusive image from which features on this week’s GQ Hype cover.
“He started appearing in Best Dressed lists again,” says Norbert Stumpfl, the relatively nascent creative director of Brioni and the man behind the outfit. “He wanted to channel the golden era of Hollywood glamour and was very engaged in the process and had very precise input, which is really exciting. I work with celebrities a lot and they are usually, you know, ‘Oh, it’s just a tuxedo.’ But Brad is a little bit different. He wants to look really sophisticated and he is very particular about using very traditional fabrics like mohair. Brad really knows the garments and he has a very good taste level.”
While the effect may look simple, it’s the details and intricacies hidden in the cut, fabric and construction of the suit that helps to create that wonderful impression of a man with absolutely nothing to prove. Firstly, the fabric must stay free of creases in the journey on the way to the ceremony, when the actor will step out of his chauffeur-driven car, which invariably gets caught in traffic, and straight onto the red carpet. “We test our mohair by scrunching it into a ball in our fists and holding it for at least a minute,” says Stumpfl. “Our exclusive mohair fabric has a natural ‘spring back’ in its structure, which means it keeps its shape and doesn’t crease.” 
For all the classicism and perceived formality of black-tie, Brad Pitt looks totally at ease and comfortable within himself. He moves smoothly. When he raises his arm to wave to the crowds and sign autographs, everything stays in place. That’s not just because he’s well, Brad Pitt, but also down to the skill of the tailor: “The suit is well fitted but not too tight,” says Stumpfl. “The internal construction and handwork in the suit, the placement of the armholes, all of these help to give this sense of incredible movement.”
All of which is designed to mirror the easy, laidback charisma of the man. “He also has kind of a cool attitude, you know?” says Stumpfl. “He just puts the clothes on and says, ‘This is what I like.’ He doesn’t think about it after. He’s not standing in front of the mirror and checking himself out. He puts it on and then he moves around. He’s forgetting about it.” 
The design of the shoulders set the tone of a bespoke suit. Broadly, the more built-up and angular the line of the shoulder, the more striking the effect. Conversely, when less padding is used, the effect feels more natural and laidback. “The shoulder is constructed but not overly padded,” says Stumpfl. “It’s a very natural shoulder. The whole look is still very elegant, it has presence but is not overpowering.” 
Perhaps one nod to contemporary fashion is in the width of the lapels, which are generous, recalling those of the late 1960s and 1970s. “We went for a little bit of a larger lapel than before, bringing more attention to his face. In the 1960s and 1970s we had these beautiful, generous revers. He likes the feeling of this and also it creates a more balanced body.”
His trousers continue the flowing line of the jacket and are cut fuller and worn higher on the waist than we have perhaps been used to seeing. “He likes the trousers quite high-waisted because when he walks on the red carpet there’s this elongated leg line," says Stumpfl. "He also likes the trouser legs long, so that when he steps out of the car you don’t see any socks showing.”
On his feet Pitt prefers shoes cut from a single piece of leather, so that the only seam that shows is hidden at the back. These “whole-cut” shoes, as they are sometimes called, are sleeker and have a slightly elongated toe and continue the fuller line of the trousers. He also prefers hand-polished calf leather as opposed to shiny patent. Up top, the bow-tie is bigger and fuller than usual, which again, subtly recalls the generous, richer style of the 1970s.  
Underscoring all this formality are a few personal touches. “He likes to accessorise with his own jewellery such as bracelets from each of his six children. He always has those bracelets, which are very personal to him," says Stumpfl. Underneath hand-pleated Brioni shirts made from the highest thread count cotton is a singlet vest, which he buys in Japan
You see? It’s all details details. All of which you, as a mere mortal, can try at home. Of course, while you can wear Brad Pitt’s tuxedo, it won’t actually turn you into Brad Pitt. Brioni are tailors, not magicians. Happily, Brad Pitt in real life does not disappoint. “I cannot believe it," says Stumpfl. "When I first met him, the guy comes onto the set [and] it’s like an explosion! There is a charisma there which is incredible. But then he’s just very charming and very easy.”
“It was so easy when we shot him for the campaign. He was contracted to work for an hour, but we spent almost three hours together. He was really into the clothes. It was a nice atmosphere. We took 100 pictures and could have used 95 for the campaign. There’s not a bad picture.” 
Later this year you too have the opportunity to flex like Brad, as the star is putting his name to a signature Brioni tuxedo, among several other limited edition pieces for the brand. The concept is all part of the label's Tailoring Legends campaign, an idea that marries talent with Brioni's exquisite craftsmanship and sense of what men need right now. 
“These clothes are simple," says Stumpfl. "Of course, underneath, in terms of fabric research, colours, cut and craftsmanship there is a lot of effort to get the garment to this kind of level, but the overall effect is simple. And it’s great to see it come alive on Brad Pitt. It’s beautiful to see.”


Thanks Jennypeachy's

Random Fuzzy
Oscars
gold bike chain on left wrist, gold chain, gold skulls, red tiger's eye and others on right wrist

SAG
dark metal bike chain

diamond bracelet on left wrist

AFI
diamond bracelet on right wrist, star tattoo and bee ring

Ad Astra
eight bracelets on right with the bee ring

Breitling summit
Yurman ID bracelet 

The first piece of jewelry he was seen wearing after September, 2016 was a gold necklace in June, 2018 at the start of the summer schedule in London to force the children to open up to him while Angelina was busy filming Maleficent MoE.  He was first seen wearing a bike chain bracelet on his right wrist in October, 2018.  He was seen wearing a 2nd necklace in December, 2018 after the judgement on custody and visitation.  He started wearing bee rings and multiple bracelets on his right wrist in July, 2019, after the judgement on status only. 

Angelina and the kids apparently chose jewelry from David Yurman's catalogue for Brad to wear for them  -- bracelets for the children and bee rings for Angelina.  To-date he has worn around a dozen different Yurman bracelets and 3 different bee rings.  Since August, 2019 he has been constantly wearing a gold Petrvs bee ring on his right ring finger.  On a handful of occasions he wore other rings along with it including a gold band on his left pinkie.  The diamond and bike chain bracelets not found in Yurman's catalogue are likely also from Angelina -- they are the only ones Brad has worn on his left wrist.  The design of the diamond bracelet which has channel-set graduated baguettes, is very similar to a Procop-Style of Jolie design and the setting is similar to her engagement ring's.  On the other hand, the diamond ring she has frequently worn with precisely matched tapered baguettes undulating around an oval-cut diamond to resemble a shining star (sun if the stone was round) shares the same aesthetic with both.  The undulations effectively give the ring 8 sides, it symbolizes the family.  Along with the large star on his wrist, it acknowledges her role as the family's center, shining for everyone and holding the family together.  She has lately been wearing a wide, shiny gold band on her left middle finger after 3 years of wearing bands only on her right hand.  What and when they choose to wear on their left hand or wrist vs. the right is significant.

They may not be ready to emerge publicly as a family just yet but they've given multiple indications -- like their eagerness to release the news of their Miraval "family project" that is still months away from production -- that they are living together as one. 

singlet vest