It's curious why the new bottles of Miraval rosé say "Mis en bouteille par Miraval" instead of "Mis en bouteille par Pitt & Perrin." 

After the 2021 sale to Yuri Shefler, they removed not just Jolie, but Pitt and Perrin as well.  They were all replaced with "Miraval" (not Miraval Provence or Château Miraval.) 

Marc Perrin had attributed Miraval rosé's success "to the Pitt-Jolie formula - the Perrin family - the Wine Spectator."  Two of those used to be on the bottle.

It is one of many hints that include Familles Perrin taking majority control of SAS Miraval Provence. They had 50.01% as of 2022.

They reveal a pattern of putting distance between themselves and the wine business.

In practical terms, it points to their divestment of the wine business.

The question is if and to what extent the Perrins will remain involved. And more importantly, why was this complicated and costly ruse necessary.

Random Fuzzy

Nouvel's crosscomplaint noted that Famille Perrin now has majority control of Miraval Provence, hence Campari can claim "the counterparty had all the necessary powers to grant distribution rights.”  It may be precisely for this deal that the transfer of shares to the Perrins was made within the last year or so.

149. By contrast, Miraval Provence’s and Familles Perrin’s 2022 public financial statements reveal that Familles Perrin now owns 50.01% of Miraval Provence:

150. In an instant, Familles Perrin became the majority owner of Miraval Provence, and Chateau Miraval was relegated to minority status.

Stoli's statement is specifically worded to make claims focused on the process while avoiding any comment on the actual decision or the agreement.  Stoli does not say that it disagrees with the decision to sign a distribution arrangement with Campari nor does it have any issues with the deal itself.

Stoli states that it was

"sidelined from any strategic sessions, commercial negotiations, or distribution agreement talks as well as the decision-making process and negotiations at Miraval."

"At" not "about."

How much of the negotiations took place at Miraval?

“Crucially, there was no tender, and Stoli Group had no involvement whatsoever in the negotiation process. This blatant omission of a co-owner of the brand from critical discussions casts a harsh spotlight on the fairness and transparency of any future agreements and raises questions about legitimacy of the process used for selecting a distribution partner for Miraval."

How often are tenders used by small wine producers to select a distribution partner?

The answer to both questions is probably somewhere between none and never.

Much like Brad's claims in his complaints, Stoli's statement uses dramatic adjectives to obscure the fact that it isn't claiming much of anything against the decision to sign a distribution agreement with Campari.  At least Stoli doesn't make the claim that it was "surprised" by the announcement.


Just Drinks

Stoli Group has spoken out against its fellow Château Miraval co-owners, which this week announced an exclusive ten-year distribution deal for the brand with Campari Group. ...

A Stoli Group spokesperson said: “In a startling development, the Stoli Group has been shockingly sidelined from any strategic sessions, commercial negotiations, or distribution agreement talks as well as the decision-making process and negotiations at Miraval, 

“Crucially, there was no tender, and Stoli Group had no involvement whatsoever in the negotiation process. This blatant omission of a co-owner of the brand from critical discussions casts a harsh spotlight on the fairness and transparency of any future agreements and raises questions about legitimacy of the process used for selecting a distribution partner for Miraval.”

Campari said “While we don’t intend to comment on Stoli Group’s accusations, we want to remind that Campari Group has a proven track record of successful acquisitions and deals including in the proper and compliant legal management thereof.  As with any other distribution relationship, Campari Group entered into the Miraval distribution agreements after having ensured that the counterparty had all the necessary powers to grant distribution rights.”

Just Drinks has contacted Famille Perrin and Pitt.

Campari Group previously told Just Drinks it was planning to position the wine brand within the aperitif segment in France and the US, which it called “leading rosé markets”.

“Our focus will be to further unlock the aperitif moment for Miraval, a consumption moment in which Campari Group and its family of brands is a leader.

“This a long-term partnership and we are both committed to unlocking the potential of Miraval in the US and France,” a spokesperson said earlier today.

The Aperol brand owner said distribution would begin at the start of next year, “upon availability of the new vintage”.

FT

Yuri Shefler, the Russian billionaire starring in latest ‘Brangelina’ drama

Vodka magnate’s stake in French vineyard has dragged him into the bitter dispute between Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie

Madeleine Speed SEPTEMBER 15 2023

Yuri Shefler has been locked in a battle with the Kremlin over the trademark rights to the Stolichnaya vodka brand for two decades. Now the exiled Russian billionaire is embroiled in another lengthy legal tussle — putting him at the heart of a Hollywood drama — this time over French rosé.

Shefler is fighting with Brad Pitt over control of Château Miraval, a Provence vineyard Pitt purchased with his former wife Angelina Jolie in 2008.

The billionaire, who made his fortune from his liquor empire, provoked Pitt’s ire after buying Jolie’s stake for $64mn in 2021, and thereby finding himself drawn into the pair’s acrimonious divorce. The dispute has been laid bare in a series of dramatic court filings putting Shefler’s name in headlines in recent months.

The couple discovered the picturesque 17th century Provencal château when they were “helicopter hopping” around the South of France, looking for a European property to buy.

The château and its accompanying 30 hectares of vineyard turned out to be a savvy investment. Miraval, which comes in a distinctive wide bottle, has ridden a rosé wave that saw global consumption rise 40 per cent between 2002 and 2018.

LVMH has snapped up not one but two “prestige” rosé Provencal wineries: Château d’Esclans, producer of Whispering Angel, and Château Minuty. Celebrities including Post Malone, Kylie Minogue and Jon Bon Jovi have all jumped on the band wagon.

With the help of the famous Rhône winemaker Marc Perrin, the star couple built up the brand, which generated more than €15mn in profits in 2022, according to court filings.

The actor has questioned whether Jolie had the right to sell her share in the first place, claiming in a lawsuit against Jolie last year he had a right of first refusal on the sale. Jolie countered that she had offered to sell her stake to the actor, but that talks fell through after Pitt introduced a provision stopping her from talking publicly about events leading to the split, forcing her to look elsewhere for a buyer.

Meanwhile, Shefler’s company, Stoli Group, alleges it has been frozen out of the running of Miraval by the Oscar-winner.

Jolie and Shefler, who left Russia in 2002 and lives in Switzerland, accused Pitt’s team of launching a “xenophobic, untrue smear campaign worthy of Putin himself”, according to court filings.

Pitt’s lawyers accused the group and Jolie of forcing Pitt into a partnership with “a stranger with poisonous associations and intentions” and argued that Shefler’s ownership “threatens harm to Miraval’s carefully honed reputation and brand” due to his alleged association with Vladimir Putin’s inner circle.

Stoli Group denied the allegation. “Stoli and Mr Shefler have been fighting a well-publicised and well-documented battle against Putin for over 20 years,” it said, adding, “Mr Shefler’s business practices or professional associations are nothing other than reputable.” 

People familiar with Shefler say he is unlikely to be cowed by the drama.

The vodka magnate has, according to Stoli Group, endured raids, smear campaigns designed to damage his reputation, and attempted poisonings and kidnappings at the hands of Russian authorities over a vodka trademark dispute.

Shefler took over a Russian company in 1997 and formed a related company that acquired the trademarks to 43 brands, including Stolichnaya, for $300,000. Russia’s Audit Chamber later said the brands were really worth $400mn, prompting Moscow to declare the sale illegal in 2001. 

In 2002, Russia’s General Prosecutor’s Office charged Shefler with threatening a government official and placed him on a wanted list. The billionaire left the country to avoid arrest, moving to Switzerland and later to Luxembourg, where the Stoli Group is headquartered. 

“He keeps a low profile because he doesn’t want to be seen by the Russian government too visibly,” said a person who has worked closely with Shefler. “He is cautious about his public image.”

In the drinks sector, however, he has a “reputation for churn”, added the former colleague. “He likes to keep people feeling uncomfortable, to feel like they have to prove themselves all the time.” Stoli Group has had multiple chief executives over the past decade, according to LinkedIn.

Shefler declined to be interviewed. Stoli Group said it was normal for businesses to have managers with varying tenures. “Every story, whether short or long, adds to the company’s accomplishments,” it said.

Shefler’s management style has made headlines before. In 2022 a UK employment tribunal ordered Stoli to pay £1.62mn for the unfair dismissal of UK executive Vlad Zabelin, who was fired after he objected to staff pay cuts during the coronavirus pandemic. The court heard that Shefler and SPI Spirits UK, the UK-based subsidiary of Stoli Group, cut the wages of most of its 2,000 employees by 30 per cent during the pandemic.

Stoli Group said Zabelin left of his own accord, and that the company had taken “unprecedented steps to minimise damage from a global pandemic”. It added that compensation was restored to pre-pandemic levels after three months, and that employees were retroactively paid for the “mitigation” measures.

Stoli Group, whose other brands include Kentucky Owl bourbon and Bayou rum, announced a rebrand of its flagship vodka last year, changing the name from Stolichnaya to Stoli vodka in an attempt to distance itself from Russia following Moscow’s invasion of Ukraine.

The group, whose wine division Tenute del Mondo has estates in Italy, Spain and Argentina, had its eye on Miraval for some time, according to Pitt’s allegations. The actor claimed in court filings that Shefler approached him in 2016, following the news of his and Jolie’s divorce, with an offer of €60mn for the estate, alongside a sweetener of a discount on a €50mn private jet.

Jolie and Pitt each declined to comment.

For the case to reach a resolution, Shefler or Pitt could buy the other out, or the two sides find a way to work together to run the wine business. But the pair appear to be at an impasse. Representatives for both sides confirmed that discussions to find a resolution had so far failed

Stoli said that “Shefler has been very consistent in his efforts to have a productive and mutually beneficial partnership with Mr Pitt”. A person familiar with the situation said: “Brad is not going to back down to bullies.”

Aside from the amount of information provided to Le Figaro writer Stephane Reynaud, what is striking is that Reynaud does not mention even once the divorce filing.  The Figaro article acknowledged that everything around the two of them is scrutinized under "super-powerful spotlights that never let go."  They know this in-depth report will be scrutinized.  It has far more information on the estate than any other article surrounding the launch of Muse de Miraval -- indicating the broad access and trust won by Reynaud.  Which makes it particularly noteworthy that in addition to omitting any reference to divorce, Reynaud, after quoting Perrin on how the "Pitt-Jolie couple" quickly agreed to be their partners, added that "Pitt-Jolie remain the owners."   The hyphen emphasizes that then and now they are joined together as a couple.  Writing "Pitt-Jolie" in lieu of "Jolie-Pitt" makes it clear that it is the two of them and not the kids.

The article describes how they were "in search of tranquillity," fell in love with Miaval, and exercised their option to buy.  A reminder that while it now produces acclaimed rosés, Miraval is first and foremost their home.  Brad lavished a lot of care and attention in overseeing the chateau's renovation and, as the article noted, he is Miraval's best agent.  His hand guides everything from the tie-up with the Perrins to the promotional efforts -- and that would include what he wanted Reynaud's article to say.  Reynaud details the big plans they have for Miraval.  They have vastly increased and upgraded the now 1,000-hectare estate.  They are in the process of greatly expanding their wine production and turning the underutilized areas into a "leading artistic venue."  The sculpture workshop capable of "monumental" works obviously shows Houseago's influence on Brad's artistic pursuits.  Screenwriting would be more of interest to Angelina who wrote In the Land of Blood and Honey while sick with the flu in an isolated "white room" of the chateau.   




Le Figaro

Comment Miraval est devenu le rosé superstar

 

Publié le 15/06/19 par Stéphane Reynaud

Un magnum de rosé de Muse de Miraval vient d’être adjugé 2 600 euros lors d’une vente aux enchères. Un record qui en dit long sur la cote de ce vin et du domaine du Var qui le produit, propriété des acteurs Brad Pitt et Angelina Jolie, et dirigé par la famille Perrin.

Quelques domaines provençaux sont à l’origine du superbe décollage de la fusée rosé. Les amateurs savent que, sur le pas de tir, se trouvent les pionniers Minuty, Ott, Esclans et une ou deux autres propriétés ayant su assembler des cuvées irréprochables, bien présentées, marketées avec soin, et les vendre en France puis aux quatre coins du monde. Mais la mise en orbite de cette couleur à l’étranger, en particulier aux États-Unis, est indissociable du rôle joué par le château de Miraval, à Correns, dans le Var. Il y a deux semaines, une bouteille de Muse de Miraval était adjugée 2 600 euros lors d’une vente organisée par la Région Sud au profit de la Fondation GoodPlanet de Yann Arthus-Bertrand. Un record absolu pour cette catégorie. Le signe surtout que le " p’tit rosé " est passé, le temps de le dire, du statut de produit de consommation banal à celui d’objet statutaire. Comment en est-on arrivé là  ?

En 2011, Angelina Jolie et Brad Pitt achètent pour une somme évaluée à 35 millions d’euros le domaine à l’homme d’affaires américain Tom Bove. Les deux célébrités en quête de tranquillité sont tombées sous le charme des lieux dès 2008 et ont obtenu un bail locatif de trois ans avec option d’achat.

Cette acquisition fait aussi d’eux des producteurs de vin. La propriété, qui s’étend alors sur 600 hectares (environ 1 000 hectares, aujourd’hui) et deux appellations, côtes-de-provence et coteaux-varois-en-provence, compte une cinquantaine d’hectares plantés en cinsault, mourvèdre, syrah, rolle, grenache, tibouren… L’idée du couple est de faire appel à un consultant qui puisse superviser la production. Dans un premier temps, l’ingénieur agronome Laurence Berlemont, qui suit de près l’activité du domaine depuis 1998, poursuit sa mission, sans changer de cap. " Miraval dispose d’un très bon terroir, même s’il est difficile car le raisin y mûrit tard. Le château a longtemps été une référence pour les grands blancs de la région, explique-t-elle. Avec les anciens propriétaires, la gamme de blancs était très complète. "

Mais Pitt veut faire évoluer son domaine. C’est finalement la famille Perrin - entre autres propriétaire du château de Beaucastel, à Courthézon (Vaucluse), en appellation châteauneuf-du-pape - qui va s’engager sur le long terme. "Nous cherchions un domaine en Provence depuis une quinzaine d’années, raconte Marc Perrin. Nous aimons la notion de nouvelle frontière, nous aimons sortir de notre région d’origine. " Ce que la famille a déjà fait en créant le domaine Tablas Creek de Paso Robles, en Californie, et en y plantant des cépages rhodaniens. Brad Pitt connaît les vins et la réputation des Perrin.

Ils entrent en relation par l’intermédiaire d’un ami commun, l’ébéniste Frank Pollaro. "Nous avons été séduits par le potentiel de Miraval, reprend Marc Perrin. C’est en bio depuis une quarantaine d’années. C’est immense. Nous avons proposé au couple Pitt-Jolie de devenir partenaires de l’affaire. Ils ont accepté 24 heures plus tard. " Pitt-Jolie restent propriétaires, mais la société Miraval Provence, qui prend en charge la production, la distribution et la commercialisation, appartient à hauteur de 50 % à la famille Perrin. Les profits sont partagés à parts égales.

De prime abord, cet accord semble à l’avantage des Perrin. Mais le risque que prend alors la famille de Courthézon est élevé. La réputation d’excellence de plusieurs générations de vignerons est mise dans la balance, sous les projecteurs surpuissants qui ne lâchent jamais Brad Pitt et Angelina Jolie. Avec ces deux-là, le moindre dérapage peut se transformer en une sortie de route à grand spectacle. De leur côté, les Américains s’associent avec une très respectable famille ancrée dans le terroir, aussi à l’aise avec les cuvées de prestige, comme Beaucastel, qu’en matière de négoce (voir encadré).

Les Perrin vinifient leur premier millésime en 2012. Il est réussi. Dans la foulée, Miraval est le premier vin rosé à entrer dans la liste des 100 meilleures cuvées de l’année du Wine Spectator, le magazine américain qui fait référence dans le mondovino : une véritable déflagration. Il y est question d’" un vin raffiné et élégant, aux arômes de baies rouges séchées et de tangerine, avec une finale concentrée sur des notes de pierre à fusil et d’épices ". Miraval fait d’un coup exploser le plafond de verre qui empêchait le rosé d’être considéré comme un grand vin. Les 6 000 bouteilles mises en vente en ligne sont vendues en cinq heures. De Los Angeles à New York, on salive en attendant la livraison des 15 000 caisses prévue en avril 2013. "Le succès est sans doute en partie lié à la formule Pitt-Jolie + la famille Perrin + le Wine Spectator, analyse Marc Perrin, six ans plus tard. Le rosé est aussi arrivé aux États-Unis au moment où s’effectuait un véritable changement de culture gastronomique. C’est une époque durant laquelle, à une même tablée, chacun a commencé à choisir son plat, lié à son alimentation sans gluten, vegan ou autre. Quand la cuisine fusionne les influences asiatiques, européennes, sud-américaines, le rosé est en capacité de s’associer à tous ces types de saveur. "

Mais c’est bien Brad Pitt lui-même qui fut et reste le meilleur agent de son domaine. Et l’homme ne manque pas de le mettre en avant dès que l’occasion se présente. Lors du dernier Festival de Cannes, l’acteur s’arrange pour que Miraval soit présent à la grande soirée qui suit la projection du film de Quentin Tarantino. Il fait même graver Once Upon a time… in Hollywood, le titre du long-métrage, sur une série de magnums. Et cela en jette.

Sur place, au château de Miraval, Marc Perrin fait appel aux microbiologistes des sols Lydia et Claude Bourguignon, qui auscultent une bonne partie du domaine. " Nous avons identifié une dizaine de parcelles intéressantes. Une avec des spécificités de sol qu’on retrouve plutôt en Alsace. C’est super pour faire des blancs. Une autre est proche de ce qu’on peut trouver en côte-rôtie, idéale pour les syrahs, explique Perrin. L’opération permet aussi de découvrir l’existence de terroirs très proches de ceux de la côte de Nuits, en Bourgogne.

"C’est un patchwork géologique formidable. " Ces découvertes marquent le coup d’envoi d’impressionnants chantiers.  Dans le nord du domaine, à flanc de coteau, à 500 mètres d’altitude, une parcelle de 4 hectares est défrichée, des dizaines de tonnes de pierres sont retirées pour le préparer à la plantation de pinot noir " pour des vins que nous pourrons commencer à déguster en 2029 ". Des travaux dantesques. "Traditionnellement, les Provençaux plantaient où il était le plus simple de planter. Nous avons cherché ailleurs, sur des terres souvent vierges ", continue Perrin. Les cabernets sauvignons dont les jus sont considérés comme décevants, sont arrachés. Les Perrin et Pitt sont sur la même longueur d’onde, obsédés par la qualité de leurs jus, dans les trois couleurs

Les idées ne manquent pas et les moyens suivent. Après avoir fait le constat qu’une parcelle de syrah manquait souvent de maturité, il a été décidé d’y construire des terrasses en pierre sèche qui, par le jeu de la réverbération, pourront faire monter la température dans la vigne.

Le cuvier a été repensé et dispose aujourd’hui d’une superbe série d’œufs en béton, un must du point de vue de la vinification. "Ces cuves en forme de tulipe font évoluer la qualité des vins, leur donnent plus de texture. Cela nous convient, nous qui cherchons à obtenir des vins très purs, floraux, mais avec une bouche charnue et une finale calcaire ", détaille Marc Perrin. Bien entendu, seuls 10 % de la production étiquetée Miraval - environ 2 millions de bouteilles au total - sont vinifiés sur place. Le reste provient de chez des vignerons partenaires. Tous les assemblages et les mises en bouteille sont réalisés à Orange.

En marge du volet vitivinicole, Miraval s’apprête à devenir un lieu artistique de premier plan. L’idée de Pitt est d’y accueillir des artistes en résidence. Une façon de renouer avec un passé proche. Un des précédents propriétaires, le pianiste et compositeur de musiques de film Jacques Loussier, y avait installé dès 1977 son studio d’enregistrement, soit 300 m2 de consoles, d’enregistreurs à bandes magnétiques, le tout 100 % analogique. L’idée était d’accueillir les musiciens de la ville, dans un cadre serein, avec les meilleures installations techniques du moment. Vont ainsi se succéder sur place les Pink Floyd, venus enregistrer The Wall - la pochette de l’album mentionne avec une orthographe approximative "enregistré à Miravel " -, les Australiens énervés d’AC/DC, Sade et le chanteur Sting. Ce dernier profite même de son séjour pour introduire des truites dans l’étang de la propriété qu’il ne juge pas assez poissonneux. Les Français de Téléphone et d’Indochine s’offrent aussi leur séjour sur place. Aujourd’hui, le studio, en parfait état, ne demande qu’à accueillir des musiciens contemporains désireux d’utiliser ce matériel de collection.

Dans le même esprit, l’ancien cuvier, inadapté à la production de vin de grande qualité souhaitée, va être transformé en atelier de sculpture. Ses dix mètres sous plafond devraient autoriser la production d’œuvres monumentales. Enfin, Brad Pitt souhaite développer des ateliers d’écriture de scénario.

Toute une stratégie qui semble bien pensée et qu’observent avec attention les grandes entreprises du secteur : "Miraval crée tout un univers autour du vin, changeant la vision que le public peut avoir de ses produits, commente le Bordelais Bernard Magrez, à la tête de 42 domaines dans le monde. Pitt a naturellement choisi l’univers artistique, qui est finalement très lié à celui du vin, car lié à l’excellence. Il fait du vin un produit culturel. C’est complètement disruptif pour ce secteur. J’applaudis des deux mains et je me permets de rappeler que ce ne sont pas les grands marchands de bougies qui ont inventé l’ampoule ! "

Miraval vient d’annoncer l’élargissement de sa gamme. En guise de clin d’œil à ses activités artistiques passées et à venir, la maison lance Studio by Miraval (IGP Méditerranée), un rosé aux arômes classiques, avec une touche saline prononcée, une vraie entrée de gamme. Dans un esprit très différent, elle sort Muse de Miraval, issu de deux superbes parcelles du domaine, une cuvée de prestige dont la production est limitée à 1 700 magnums.

Six ans après le succès retentissant de la première cuvée de Miraval signée Pitt-Perrin, la ferveur n’est pas retombée outre-Atlantique. Et rien ne laisse présager le moindre fléchissement. En France, le rosé représente presque un tiers des volumes consommés, contre 5 % aux États-Unis. La Provence liquide n’a pas fini de s’exporter.


Thanks Pride&Joy

bing translation

How Miraval became the superstar rosé

A magnum of muse de Miraval rosé has just been sold for 2,600 euros at an auction. A record that says a lot about the rating of this wine and the Var estate that produces it, owned by actors Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, and run by the Perrin family.

Some Provençal domains are responsible for the superb take-off of the pink rocket. Fans know that, on the shooting pitch, are the pioneers Minuty, Ott, Esclans and one or two other properties that have assembled impeccable vintages, well presented, marketed with care, and sold in France and then around the world.  But the orbiting of this color abroad, especially in the United States, is inseparable from the role played by Chateau Miraval, in Correns in the Var.  Two weeks ago, a bottle of Muse de Miraval was sold for 2,600 euros at a sale organized by La Région Sud to benefit Yann Arthus-Bertrand's GoodPlanet Foundation. An absolute record for this category.  A sign above all that the "little rosé" has gone, it is time to say, from the status of a banal consumer product to that of a statutory object.  How did we get to this point?

In 2011, Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt bought the estate for an estimated 35 million euros from American businessman Tom Bove. The two celebrities in search of tranquillity fell in love with the place in 2008 and obtained a three-year rental lease with option to buy.

This acquisition also makes them wine producers.  The property, which then covered 600 hectares (about 1,000 hectares today) and two appellations, côtes-de-Provence and coteaux-varois-en-Provence, has about fifty hectares planted in cinsault, mourvèdre, syrah, rolle, grenache, Tibouren... The idea of the couple was to call on a consultant who can supervise the production. At first, the agronomist engineer Laurence Berlemont, who had been closely following the activity of the estate since 1998, continued his mission, without changing course. "Miraval has a very good terroir, even if it is difficult because the grapes ripen late. The castle has long been a reference for the great whites of the region, he explains. "With the previous owners, the range of whites was very complete. "

But Pitt wants to evolve his field.  In the end, it is the Perrin family - among others owner of the Château de Beaucastel, in Courthézon (Vaucluse), in the appellation Châteauneuf-du-pape - who will commit themselves to the long term. "We had been looking for an estate in Provence for about 15 years," says Marc Perrin.  "We like the notion of a new frontier, we like to get out of our home region. " What the family has already done by creating the Tablas Creek estate in Paso Robles, California, and planting Rhodanian grape varieties.  Brad Pitt knows the wines and reputation of the Perrins.

They enter into a relationship through a mutual friend, cabinetmaker Frank Pollaro. "We were seduced by Miraval's potential," says Marc Perrin.  "It's been organic for about 40 years. It's huge. We proposed to the Pitt-Jolie couple to become partners in the business. They agreed 24 hours later. "  Pitt-Jolie remain the owners, but Miraval Provence, which supports production, distribution and marketing, is 50% owned by the Perrin family.  Profits are shared equally.

At first glance, this agreement seems to be to the Perrins' advantage. But the risk to Courthezon's family is high.  The reputation of excellence of several generations of winemakers is put in the balance, under the super-powerful spotlights that never let go of Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. With these two, the slightest skid can turn into a big-show road trip.  For their part, the Americans associate themselves with a very respectable family rooted in the terroir, as comfortable with prestige vintages, such as Beaucastel, as in terms of trading (see box).

The Perrins made their first vintage in 2012. It is successful. In the process, Miraval is the first rosé wine to be included in the list of the 100 best vintages of the year of the Wine Spectator, the American magazine that refers in the mondovino: a real explosion.  It is about "a refined and elegant wine, with aromas of dried red berries and tangerine, with a finish concentrated on notes of gun stone and spices."  Miraval suddenly blew up the glass ceiling that prevented rosé from being considered a great wine. The 6,000 bottles on sale online are sold out in five hours.  From Los Angeles to New York, we are salivating while waiting for the delivery of the 15,000 cases scheduled for April 2013. "Success is probably partly related to the Pitt-Jolie formula - the Perrin family - the Wine Spectator," writes Marc Perrin, six years later.  "Rosé also arrived in the United States at a time when there was a real change in gastronomic culture. It was a time when, at the same table, everyone began to choose their dish, linked to their gluten-free, vegan or other diet. When the cuisine fuses Asian, European and South American influences, rosé is able to combine with all these types of flavours. "

But it was Brad Pitt himself who was and remains the best agent in his field.  And he does not fail to put it forward as soon as the opportunity arises. At the last Cannes Film Festival, the actor arranged for Miraval to be present at the big party following the screening of Quentin Tarantino's film. He even etched "Once Upon a time... in Hollywood," the title of the feature film, on a series of magnums. And that throws some away.

On site, at the Château de Miraval, Marc Perrin calls on soil microbiologists Lydia and Claude Bourguignon, who examine a large part of the estate.  "We have identified a dozen interesting plots. One with soil specificities that can be found in Alsace. It's great for whites. Another is close to what can be found in côte-rôtie, ideal for syrahs," explains Perrin.  The operation also allows the discovery of the existence of terroirs very close to those of the côte de Nuits, in Burgundy.

"It's a great geological patchwork. "  These discoveries mark the start of impressive projects.  In the north of the estate, on the hillside, at 500 meters above sea level, a plot of 4 hectares is cleared, tens of tons of stones are removed to prepare it for the planting of pinot noir "for wines that we can start tasting in 2029". Dantesque work.  "Traditionally, the Provençals planted where it was easiest to plant. We searched elsewhere, on often untouched land," continues Perrin.  Cabernet sauvignons, whose juices are considered disappointing, are torn off.  The Perrin and Pitt are on the same wavelength, obsessed with the quality of their juices, in all three colors

There is no shortage of ideas and the means follow. After realizing that a plot of syrah often lacked maturity, it was decided to build dry stone terraces there that, through the play of reverberation, could raise the temperature in the vine.

The vat has been redesigned and today has a superb series of concrete eggs, a must from the point of view of winemaking. "These tulip-shaped vats change the quality of the wines, give them more texture. This suits us, who are looking for very pure, floral wines, but with a fleshy mouth and a limestone finish," explains Marc Perrin. Of course, only 10% of Miraval's labeled production - about 2 million bottles in total - is vinified on site. The rest comes from partner winemakers. All blends and bottlings are made in Orange.

In addition to the wine making section, Miraval is about to become a leading artistic venue. Pitt's idea is to welcome artists in residence. A way to reconnect with a near past. One of the previous owners, the pianist and composer of film music Jacques Loussier, had set up his recording studio there in 1977, i.e. 300sqm of consoles, magnetic tape recorders, all 100% analog.  The idea was to welcome the musicians of the city, in a serene setting, with the best technical facilities of the moment. Pink Floyd, who came to record The Wall - the album cover mentions with approximate spelling "recorded in Miravel" - follow the scene, the angry Australians of AC/DC, Sade and the singer Sting. The latter even takes advantage of his stay to introduce trout into the pond of the property that he considers does not have enough fish.  Les Français de Téléphone et d’Indochine also stay on site. Today, the studio, in perfect condition, is just waiting to welcome contemporary musicians who want to use this collectible material.

In the same spirit, the old vat, unsuitable for the desired production of high quality wine, will be transformed into a sculpture workshop.  Its ten-meters ceiling should allow the production of monumental works.  Finally, Brad Pitt wants to develop scriptwriting workshops.

A whole strategy that seems well thought out and carefully observed by the big companies in the sector: "Miraval creates a whole universe around wine, changing the public's view of its products," comments Bordeaux's Bernard Magrez, head of 42 areas around the world.  "Pitt naturally chose the artistic universe, which is ultimately very much linked to that of wine, because it is linked to excellence. It makes wine a cultural product. It's completely disruptive for this sector. I applaud with both hands and let me remind myself that it was not the great candle merchants who invented the bulb! "

Miraval has just announced the expansion of its range. As a nod to its past and future artistic activities, the company launched Studio by Miraval (IGP Mediterranean), a rosé with classic aromas, with a pronounced saline touch, a true entry-level. In a very different spirit, it released Muse de Miraval, from two superb plots of the estate, a prestigious vintage whose production is limited to 1,700 magnums.

Six years after the resounding success of Pitt-Perrin's first Miraval vintage, the fervor has not fallen across the Atlantic. And there is no sign of a softening.  In France, rosé accounts for almost one-third of the volume consumed, compared to 5% in the United States. Liquid Provence has not finished exporting.



Chrome translate

How Miraval became the superstar rosé
A magnum of rosé from Muse de Miraval has just been sold for 2,600 euros at an auction.
By Stephane Reynaud
Posted on 06/15/2019

A record that says a lot about the rating of this wine and the Var estate that produces it, owned by actors Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, and run by the Perrin family.

A few Provençal estates are behind the superb take-off of the rosé rocket. Amateurs know that, on the launch pad, are the pioneers Minuty , Ott , Esclans and one or two other properties that have been able to blend impeccable cuvées, well presented, carefully marketed, and sell them in France and then to the four corners of the world. But the putting into orbit of this color abroad, in particular in the United States, is inseparable from the role played by the Château de Miraval , in Correns, in the Var. Two weeks ago, a bottle of Muse de Miraval went for 2,600 euros at a sale organized by the Southern Region for the benefit of Yann Arthus-Bertrand's GoodPlanet Foundation.. An absolute record for this category. Above all, the sign that the "little rosé" has gone, time to say it, from the status of an ordinary consumer product to that of a statutory object. How did we get here ?

In 2011, Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt bought the estate from American businessman Tom Bove for an estimated sum of 35 million euros. The two celebrities in search of tranquility fell in love with the place in 2008 and obtained a three-year rental lease with an option to buy.

This acquisition also makes them wine producers. The property, which then extended over 600 hectares (about 1,000 hectares, today) and two appellations, Côtes-de-Provence and Coteaux-Varois-en-Provence , has around fifty hectares planted with Cinsault , Mourvèdre , syrah , rolle , grenache , tibouren … The couple's idea is to call on a consultant who can supervise production. Initially, agronomist Laurence Berlemont, who has closely followed the activity of the estate since 1998, continues his mission, without changing course. "  Miraval has a very good terroir, even if it is difficult because the grapes ripen late there. The chateau has long been a reference for the great whites of the region, she explains. With the previous owners, the range of whites was very complete. "

"We had been looking for a domain in Provence for fifteen years, says Marc Perrin. We like the notion of a new frontier, we like to leave our region of origin. " What the family has already done by creating the Tablas Creek domain of Paso Robles, California, and planting Rhone grape varieties there. Brad Pitt knows the wines and the reputation of the Perrins.

They entered into a relationship through a mutual friend, cabinetmaker Frank Pollaro. “We were seduced by the potential of Miraval, resumes Marc Perrin. It has been organic for about forty years. It is immense. accepted 24 hours later.” The Pitt-Jolies remain the owners, but the company Miraval Provence, which handles production, distribution and marketing, is 50% owned by the Perrin family. Profits are shared equally.

At first glance, this agreement seems to benefit the Perrins. But the risk then taken by the Courthézon family is high. The reputation for excellence of several generations of winegrowers hangs in the balance, under the overpowering spotlight that never lets go of Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. With these two, the slightest slip can turn into a spectacular road trip. For their part, the Americans are associated with a very respectable family anchored in the land, as comfortable with prestige cuvées, such as Beaucastel, as in terms of trade (see box).

The Perrin vinified their first vintage in 2012. It was successful. In the process, Miraval is the first rosé wine to enter the list of the 100 best cuvées of the year by Wine Spectator , the American magazine which is a reference in the mondovino: a real explosion. It is about "a refined and elegant wine, with aromas of dried red berries and tangerine, with a finish concentrated on notes of gunflint and spices "  . Miraval suddenly shattered the glass ceiling that prevented rosé from being considered a great wine. The 6,000 bottles put up for sale online sold out in five hours.From Los Angeles to New York, we are salivating while waiting for the delivery of the 15,000 cases scheduled for April 2013. "The success is undoubtedly partly linked to the Pitt-Jolie formula + the Perrin family + the Wine Spectator, analyzes Marc Perrin, six years later. Rosé also arrived in the United States at a time when a real change in gastronomic culture was taking place. It was a time during which, at the same table, everyone began to choose their dish, linked to its gluten-free, vegan or other diet. When the cuisine merges Asian, European and South American influences, rosé is able to associate itself with all these types of flavor."

But it is Brad Pitt himself who was and remains the best agent in his field. And the man does not fail to put it forward as soon as the opportunity arises. During the last Cannes Film Festival, the actor arranges for Miraval to be present at the big party following the screening of Quentin Tarantino's film. He even had Once Upon a time… in Hollywood, the title of the feature film, engraved on a series of magnums. And it throws.

"We have identified around ten interesting plots. One with specific soil characteristics that are found more in Alsace. It's great for making white wines. Another is close to what you can find in Côte-Rôtie, ideal for the Syrahs, explains Perrin.The operation also makes it possible to discover the existence of terroirs very close to those of the Côte de Nuits, in Burgundy .

"It's a wonderful geological patchwork." These discoveries mark the start of impressive projects. In the north of the estate, on the hillside, 500 meters above sea level, a 4-hectare plot is cleared, tens of tons of stones are removed to prepare it for planting pinot noir "for wines that we can start tasting in 2029". Dantesque works. "Traditionally, the people of Provence planted where it was easiest to plant. We looked elsewhere, on often virgin land", continues Perrin. Cabernet Sauvignons , whose juices are considered disappointing, are ripped off. The Perrins and Pitts are on the same wavelength, obsessed with the quality of their juices,.

The ideas are not lacking and the means follow. After realizing that a parcel of Syrah often lacked maturity, it was decided to build dry stone terraces there which, through the play of reverberation, could raise the temperature in the vines.

The vat room has been redesigned and now has a superb series of concrete eggs, a must from a winemaking point of view . "These tulip-shaped vats make the quality of the wines evolve, give them more texture. This suits us, we who seek to obtain very pure, floral wines, but with a fleshy mouthfeel and a chalky finish", explains Marc Perrin . Of course, only 10% of production labeled Miraval - around 2 million bottles in total - is vinified on site. The rest comes from partner winegrowers. All blending and bottling is done in Orange.

On the sidelines of the wine sector, Miraval is about to become a leading artistic place. Pitt's idea is to welcome artists in residence there . A way to reconnect with a recent past. One of the previous owners, the pianist and composer of film music Jacques Loussier, had set up his recording studio there in 1977 , ie 300 m2 of consoles, magnetic tape recorders, all 100% analogue. The idea was to welcome the city's musicians, in a serene setting, with the best technical installations of the moment.The Pink Floyd, who came to record The Wall - the album cover mentions with an approximate spelling "recorded at Miravel" - will thus succeed one another on the spot -, the angry Australians of AC / DC, Sade and the singer Sting. The latter even takes advantage of his stay to introduce trout into the property's pond, which he does not consider to be fishy enough. The French Telephone and Indochina also offer their stay on site. Today, the studio, in perfect condition, is eager to welcome contemporary musicians wishing to use this collection material.

In the same spirit, the old vat room, unsuited to the production of the desired high quality wine, will be transformed into a sculpture workshop . Its ten meters under ceiling should authorize the production of monumental works. Finally, Brad Pitt wants to develop screenwriting workshops.

A whole strategy which seems well thought out and which the large companies in the sector are observing with attention: "Miraval creates a whole universe around wine, changing the vision that the public can have of its products, comments the Bordelais Bernard Magrez, head of of 42 domains in the world. Pitt naturally chose the artistic universe, which is ultimately very linked to that of wine, because linked to excellence. He makes wine a cultural product. It is completely disruptive for this sector. I applaud with both hands and I take the liberty of reminding you that it was not the great candle merchants who invented the light bulb! "

Miraval has just announced the expansion of its range. As a nod to its past and future artistic activities, the house is launching Studio by Miraval (IGP Méditerranée), a rosé with classic aromas, with a pronounced saline touch, a real entry level. In a very different spirit, she released Muse de Miraval , from two superb plots of the estate, a prestigious cuvée whose production is limited to 1,700 magnums.

Six years after the resounding success of the first cuvée de Miraval signed Pitt-Perrin, the fervor has not waned across the Atlantic. And nothing suggests the slightest decline. In France, rosé represents almost a third of the volumes consumed, compared to 5% in the United States. Liquid Provence has not finished being exported .

View this post on Instagram

@onceinhollywood party. #miraval #rosé #roséwine #provence #festivaldecannes #onceuponatimeinhollywood

A post shared by Miraval (@miraval) on May 22, 2019 at 6:29am PDT

The Wine Spectator column, Unfiltered, is only posted in part below because it contains flagrant innacuracies: Muse de Miraval did not make its debut at the Cannes film festivsl.  What was served during the festival and at the OUATIH after party, with the film's title etched on the bottle as seen above, was the regular rosé.  Muse set a record price at a charity auction held at Château La Coste, which is over a 100 miles away from Cannes, and took place after the festival screenings.  The Perrins are co-owners of the wine production, not Miraval itself.  Since the writer plays fast and loose with facts, the only reliable parts are where Perrin is quoted directly.

View this post on Instagram

M U S E #miraval #roséwine #provence

A post shared by Miraval (@miraval) on Jun 22, 2019 at 8:10am PDT

Unfiltered, Wine Spectator

Inside the New Winery for Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie's Record-Breaking Rosé

Winemaker Marc Perrin explained how he crafted a rosé to compete with elite reds and whites in quality—and a four-figure price tag

Jun 19, 2019
...

“The idea for us with this wine is to show that great rosé can be as great as great white or great red,” Perrin told Unfiltered. “It can evolve with time and become extremely complex. That’s why we decided to bottle it in magnums so that people try to keep it as [long] as possible.” Outside the auction world, retailers had priced the wine at about $290 per mag.
Long before its red-carpet debut, Muse was a soil study: Perrin eventually selected two of the best and oldest parcels of Grenache and Rolle (Vermentino) on the property's 2,500 acres for the cuvée. And where the standard Miraval bottlings are sent to the Perrin facility up in the Rhône for élevage, Muse is crushed, fermented and aged in a new winery on the Miraval property; 2018 was the inaugural vintage. The cellar has been equipped with egg-shaped concrete tanks, which, Perrin explained, is a return to the old.

“Typically, the great rosés from Provence were all made in concrete tanks, so we’re basically coming back to the tradition of rosé,” Perrin said. “But at the same time, it’s with a new shape of tanks, which gives a really interesting profile to the wine.” A new press for Muse grapes is perched at one of the estate’s highest points, allowing gravity to coax the juice down to the fermentation tanks, no pumps necessary.

Unfortunately, all 1,700 magnums of the new juice have sold out on the winery’s end—hopefully not a portent of rosé shortages to come.

Thanks Felicity

source

I was also provided the link to an article in The Telegraph but it obviosly brazenly lifted portions off Le Figaro's report and as such is not worth posting.

CHÂTEAU MIRAVAL TO RELEASE A HIGH-END ORGANIC ROSÉ THIS SUMMER: MUSE DE MIRAVAL
by Susan Manfull
APRIL 29, 2018 Marc Perrin of Château de Beaucastel fame dropped by The Pierre Hotel in Manhattan’s Upper East Side this past week for a chat with a small group of wine writers. The rendezvous was part of a new partnership between the iconic hotel and the renowned Château Miraval in Provence, the estate propelled into the international spotlight when it was purchased by Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie and, later, when their inaugural (2012) rosé, made in partnership with the Perrin family, made it on to Wine Spectator’s list of the top 100 wines of 2013. At an intimate table in the hotel’s French-American restaurant, Perrine, we talked about an assortment of subjects ranging from challenges winemakers in Provence face to new plantings at Miraval as well as a new high-end organic rosé to be launched from Miraval this summer. Executive Chef Ashfer Biju also joined the conversation (when he was not required in the kitchen) and we got to sample his exceptional appetizers as we talked.

Marc Perrin at Château de Beaucastel in July 2015. Photo by A.C. Manfull

Perrin is someone who needs no introduction to readers of Provence WineZine but in case you inadvertently landed in this article, Perrin, now in his late 40s, is part of the fifth-generation of vignerons at the legendary Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the CEO of the Perrin family business, and the Perrin family member who forged the partnership with Jolie and Pitt sometime around 2012, when the famous couple purchased the property that they had rented for several years.

The 500-hectare Miraval property is located in the heart of the Var department of Provence, in Correns, a small village known for its emphasis on organic farming. This is a gorgeous area known as “Provence Verte.” The vast estate includes a rich forest of evergreen and white oak, a large grove of olive trees, gardens (where, according to Perrin, 40 varieties of basil are grown, including his personal favorite, Thai basil), and 40 hectares of vines on two appellations. Miraval rosé is composed of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Rolle (more commonly known as Vermentino outside of Provence), all from Côtes de Provence vines, both on the estate and sourced from selected vineyards off the estate. Two exceptional white wines of Rolle and of Rolle and Grenache Blanc are also produced, both from estate grapes from the Coteaux de Varois en Provence vines.

This is the Famille Perrin bottling plant in Orange, where Château Miraval wines are bottled (although clearly these are not Miraval bottles.) Photo by A.C. Manfull

In the partnership, the Perrin family has an equal financial relationship with the Jolie-Pitt family in the Miraval wine business. Once the grapes are harvested and then vinified (essentially meaning the grapes are crushed and turned into fermented juice) at Château Miraval, the juice is transported to Famille Perrin in Orange for elevage and bottling. At the Famille Perrin facility, Perrin explained in (2013) correspondence, there is “a state-of-the-art bottling line (that can accommodate the atypical size bottle) as well as a quality control system and a team which is top notch.”

The news of a high-end organic rosé to join the Miraval portfolio is big news. And there’s more scoop about a Vin de France red wine from Miraval as well as two other relatively new parcels of vines on the esteemed property. But first, the new rosé….

I had asked Perrin about whether he thought rosé is a serious wine. “Of course,” Perrin said, “I think it is very unfair for rosé [not to be considered a serious wine].”

“What sets the three colors of wine apart?” Perrin asked, setting the stage to tell us his thoughts on the hotly debated subject. “When you think about it, it is [the length of] maceration: it is longer than white and shorter than red. So if you can make great white or red wine, why can’t you make great rosé?”

Perrin’s answer, as other very knowledgeable wine folks have also said, is that rosé was long known as “a by-product of red wine,” a method of concentrating the final product—a bolder red wine—thus implying that rosé is a “second wine” and, therefore, inferior. Today, in Provence, rosé is not a by-product of red; rather, rosé wine is the goal (although a small amount of juice from the saignée method may be used, in part, to produce rosé).

“There is no objective reason why you can’t have a great rosé that compares with the great reds and whites,” Perrin said. “When you taste [Domaine] Tempier of Bandol, you will understand,” he added.

“At Miraval, we want to bring rosé to the next level,” Perrin told us. “To the level of a great wine.”

Grape varieties comprising Muse de Miraval (left to right – Grenache, Rolle, Cinsault) Photos: Francois Millo/CIVP

“We are going to release a new cuvée,” Perrin announced and proceeded to tell us that it will made from an exclusive selection of Miraval’s best parcels of Grenache, Cinsault, and Rolle. “The best of the best,” he added.

And organic. I want to stress the organic provenance because, although Miraval had long been certified organic, the Jolie-Pitt-Perrin team stopped claiming organic status beginning with the 2012 vintage. According to the Miraval website, they wanted “to have the flexibility to blend the grapes of the estate with top quality grapes sourced from other vineyards which are not necessarily certified organic.” (Clearly they anticipated the growth potential of Miraval rosé, under the new ownership.) In addition, according to the website, the vinification would include a stabilization method that is not considered organic in Europe (but is in the United States).

There was a lot of hoopla, locally and internationally, about dropping its organic status. Notably, in contrast, Château de Beaucastel prides itself on having adopted organic practices in the 1950s and, in addition, having begun experimenting with biodynamic practices as early as the 1970s and, now, having fully embraced this approach to viticulture and viniculture.

Back to the new rosé. In order to produce this rosé, a new winery was built under the famous recording studio of Miraval. For those who are not wine and music geeks, let me tell you a little of the history of this building. In the late 1970s, French jazz pianist Jacques Loussier, who owned Miraval from the late 1970s to the early 1990s, installed France’s first “Solid State Logic” mixing console—read really high-end recording gear, for its time—and the list of prominent musicians who would come to record their music in “Studio Miraval” is incredibly impressive. From 1979 when the popular British rock group, Pink Floyd, was there to record their historic rock opera, The Wall, the list grew to include AC/DC, The Cure, Muse, Wham!, Sade, Steve Winwood, Yes, UB40, the Gipsy Kings, Queen, Sting, and Elton John. Let’s hope these good music vibes continue to linger in the cave as the new wine is vinified.

Other details I was able to discern are that concrete tulip-shaped vats were used for fermentation as well as a few demi-muids but the final assemblage regarding the extent of the role of oak has yet to be determined. What is known is that this rosé is made to be aged, will only be sold in magnums, and pricing is not yet known. Most important, it will be christened “Muse de Miraval” and launched this summer (2018).

Looking further ahead, watch for Miraval to launch a Vin de France Pinot Noir. In a June 2014 article in Wine Spectator, Perrin hinted at the possibility of creating such a red wine when he told writer Robert Camuto that “… the best terroirs [at Miraval] are outside the appellations.” Perrin told us that after extensive soil analysis and “carrot plantings,” they found a parcel that is exactly the same geology as Côte de Nuits. It is primarily limestone—“a signature of French wine,” according to Perrin—and about 450 to 500 meters in altitude. There, Pinot Noir is to be planted—unsurprisingly given the predominantly limestone soil but very surprisingly given it is Provence. “Just to check, just for fun,” Perrin added, smiling.

Other new plantings are more Syrah (presumably for the flagship rosé) and, for the first time, Mourvèdre. We did not discuss where the latter variety might fit in but possibilities might include: part of the future red blend or part of a rosé as Perrin mentioned the Mourvèdre in the context of it being a component of rosés that can benefit from aging. It is also known that this variety is a favorite at Château de Beaucastel, having been introduced by Marc’s grandfather, Jacques Perrin.

Much to my disappointment, there are no plans to increase white wine production, especially since 2017 was plagued by drought conditions and destructive frosts across Provence. Like other properties in the South of France, Château Miraval had to deal with smaller harvests and lower productions than usual. Since Rolle is used in the rosé—and that color takes precedence over the white wines—expect a lower white wine production from Miraval (like 1-2% of production).

And, don’t look north to Châteauneuf-du-Pape to assuage your thirst for whites. At Château de Beaucastel, the eponymous white wine production will remain at 10,000 bottles, Perrin said, and production of their more expensive “Vieilles Vignes” cuvée, made of 100% Roussane grapes from vines of at least 65 years of age, will total about 6,000 bottles.

“People think of red in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but the white is amazing,” Perrin said. I completely agree.

Climate change poked its nose into the conversation as we lamented the smaller harvests and lower productions across this part of France (and beyond). “I think the biggest challenge in business is global warming,” Perrin said, matter-of-factly. “It is a fact so you need to adapt to that but the beauty is that, in wine, you can adapt by blending grapes…you are not stuck with one grape.” (Certainly not in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the appellation known for the large number of permitted grape varieties—13 or 18, depending on how you count the different colors–authorized when the appellation was first established in 1936.)

“When I started in ’89, ’90, the harvest in Beaucastel was, on average, two weeks later than what it is now. So, you really see an acceleration over the last 20, 25 years. It is a fact and nobody can deny that,” Perrin added. Underscoring that having a diversity of grapes with which to work makes adaptation easier, he said, “With global warming, we will favor the grapes which have low alcohol versus the ones that have high alcohol and we can blend with the ones that have higher acidity to keep the balance.”

The increased demand for Miraval rosé, coupled with the smaller harvest, made sourcing grapes particularly difficult this year, Perrin shared. For the United States alone, Miraval produces over 90,000 cases of its rosé, according to the most recent data I could find (Shaken News Daily, 7 February 2018).

Auguste Escoffier (1846 – 1935), known as “the king of chefs and the chef of kings,” is credited with creating a new approach to Grande Cuisine: “Above all, keep it simple.” He jettisoned “overly complicated recipes, ponderously extravagant dinners, sauces and garnishes that disguised main ingredients nearly beyond recognition.” — From Les Amis d’Escoffier Society of New York

. With our backdrop of Chef Biju’s attractive plates of simple but exceptional food in the classic ambience of Perrine, it was easy to segue into the subject of how much our relationship with both food and wine has changed in the last couple of decades.

“The first menu [at The Pierre] was written by Chef Escoffier himself,” Biju said. “The Pierre has always been traditional—classic French.”

“In the last few years, we’ve tried to lighten up everything, including the food. We took all the classic dishes and made them more accessible, more modern…and rosé fits right into that,” Biju explained.

Miraval is the exclusive rosé served in the hotel restaurants and lounges—Perrine, the Rotunda, and Two E Bar & Lounge—as well as for room service.

Both Biju and Perrin agreed that those in the food and wine business are facing a new clientele. Biju said that they see a new generation who views luxury as comfort, something that is accessible but not something that one must spend a lot of money on. Perrin concurred, adding that status is not as important to this generation as experiencing the moment. Rosé’s popularity seems to be intertwined with a carefree lifestyle which might be described, in Perrin’s words, as a new form of luxury.

The food we were served reflected Biju’s philosophy: it appeared simply prepared but the flavors were anything but simple. A perfectly arranged charcuterie and cheese platter looked, to use the chef’s words, as if it were prepared with “careful carelessness” and it was presented like “food that looks like real food.” The same was true with a plate that was inspired by a rich mushroom quiche but was actually an Indian naan topped with fresh vegetables. My personal favorite was a miniature tuna tartare with Niçoise garnitures and Dijon dressing—served in Asian soup spoons. Each platter met the chef’s two requirements: have a story and taste great.

Rosé was the perfect accompaniment. Like the food, it seems simple but, at least with good rosés, there is complexity, texture, a nice balance of fruit and acidity, and, ideally, a little minerality. “Rosé is a new way of experiencing wine,” Perrin suggested. “It’s easy….Rosé goes with everything and you don’t have to think about the vintage.”

For a man who cut his teeth on red wine, I found Perrin’s perspective interesting. I asked him if he felt the new generation, given their propensity to focus on the moment and not be weighed down with planning, would have the patience to age their wine. His answer, in a word, was no. Although there will always be passionate people—and collectors, as Biju added—aging one’s wine won’t be mainstream, Perrin opined.

Château de Beaucastel came to this conclusion as much as 20 years ago and began putting away between 10% and 20% of the bottles they produce and holding them until such time that they feel the wine is in “a different phase of evolution.” Clients, for various reasons (e.g., lack of appropriate space, lack of time, or no forethought) may not age their wine but they are willing to pay someone else to do it in a perfectly climatized cellar.

And, yes, there was the pesky matter of the glam couple’s widely covered divorce and, most important to some observers in the wine industry, who will get the Château. Perrin said (rather emphatically) that they are not selling the Château, adding that “in the wine business, one basically does things for the next generation.” As part of the fifth generation of winemakers at Château de Beaucastel, Perrin would understand the wisdom of such a philosophy. I wonder if any of the six Jolie-Pitt children will be bitten by the wine bug.